IN CONVERSATION WITH JURGEN VAN DER ZALM

interview TIMOTEJ LETONJA
words NATALIE GAL

We sat down with Jurgen van der Zalm, Executive Chef at Vinkeles in the heart of Amsterdam. After an unforgettable meal, he shared the concepts behind his cuisine, the philosophy, the craftsmanship, and where he finds inspiration. He offered spectacular insight into how music can be translated onto the plate, and how history and storytelling shape his creations.

You describe your cooking as a constant search for the perfect moment for each ingredient, waiting for its season even if it’s brief. How do you manage that, and how do you plan ahead?

Cooking today comes with its challenges, especially with the climate changes. I keep a very close connection with my suppliers and farmers so we can respond immediately. Yet, the seasons are fleeting; sometimes an ingredient is at its very best for only a single week. That’s why I rely so much on my suppliers; every year is different, and I need their guidance. My day often begins at 7 a.m. with a call from my fish supplier, letting me know what has been freshly caught.

For me, it’s always about sourcing the very best ingredients. Each dish is built around just three elements, so there’s nowhere to hide. If something isn’t at the right quality, the dish simply won’t appear on the menu. The product itself must tell the story; and only the best will do. Like many chefs, I’m obsessive in that pursuit.

The building of Vinkeles is filled with history. How do you translate that heritage into your dishes?

The experience begins the moment you step through the gate. Once the entrance to Amsterdam’s very first theatre, dating back to 1638, it carries centuries of history. That sense of heritage flows naturally into our dishes. Though it’s no longer a theatre, dining here still feels like an unfolding performance. After the theatre’s destruction in 1772, the site became an almshouse, where those in need could receive bread. Traces of that past remain: the original water pump, well, and ovens from 1784 are still part of Restaurant Vinkeles today. We want our guests to feel at home; a place that is warm and intimate, where timeless French techniques meet modern creativity and the best ingredients.

What do you think makes Amsterdam truly special and stand out, culinarily, but also in general?

Amsterdam offers everything from fine dining to street food, and wherever you go, you can eat exceptionally well. What makes the city unique is the freedom chefs have to express creativity. With so many international visitors, guests are often more open to bold or unconventional ideas. Take our pigeon dish, for example, served with its claws still attached - something that feels natural here, but perhaps less so in small Dutch towns as there’s less culinary experimentation. It’s this openness that makes Amsterdam such an inspiring place to cook and to dine.

The chef’s menu at Vinkeles is full of highlights. One that stands out is the “pigeon au sang.” Could you tell us more about this delicacy?

This is a very special pigeon, unlike the ones you might see on Dam Square. Ours comes from the Racan region in the Loire Valley, where there is a long tradition of raising pigeons with extraordinary care. The birds are nurtured naturally by their parents, and the farmers’ patience and dedication are reflected in the depth of flavour.

We prepare it in the classic French style, known as “pigeon au sang”, a dish celebrated for its richness and intensity. It’s a tribute to both the heritage of French gastronomy and the craftsmanship of the farmers who devote themselves to raising such exceptional produce.

How do you go about creating a menu? Where do you draw your inspiration from, is it the city, the seasons, or perhaps even music and literature?

I find inspiration everywhere. Often it begins with a call from my supplier: “We have an incredible king crab today.” That spark becomes the foundation of a dish. But inspiration also comes from music, like the work of Ludovico Einaudi. If you listen closely, you hear the layers: each one adding depth, each one stirring emotion. That’s exactly what I strive for in my cuisine.

Take the langoustine, for example. At first glance, it seems effortless: just the langoustine and a ‘simple’ sauce. But when you take the first bite, you feel the emotion of the dish. The layers reveal themselves; the textures, the flavours, the complexity beneath the surface. My aim is to let the plate appear pure and unforced, while inside it holds a world of detail.

You lead a large team of more than 20 people. At its core, being an Executive Chef is about leadership, what do you think makes a great leader in the kitchen?

I believe in being approachable as an executive chef, my team knows they can come to me at any time. Listening is key, as is knowing when to step in and when to step back. I trust them, place them where they feel comfortable, but also encourage them to push beyond their limits. Every so often I take someone slightly out of their comfort zone, just to see how they respond. If it works, they grow; if not, we return to our rhythm.

We also actively support internships abroad, as I believe it’s essential to research, explore, and see what’s happening beyond our own kitchen. Without that, you risk staying in a bubble. In this year our sous-chef completed internships at Frantzén, Stockholm (3 Michelin stars) and Jordnær, Copenhagen (3 Michelin stars). Those are experiences that not only enrich the individual, but also elevate the entire team.

You've already achieved a lot with the restaurant, two stars. What are the next challenges? What are the next goals for Vinkeles?

I want to keep challenging myself and the team. The next step is to bring greater international recognition to Vinkeles. I’ve always believed the plate and the kitchen should speak for themselves, and I still do, so sharing our work on a broader stage feels like a natural progression. With so many international guests already discovering us, we know we’re on the right path. It’s all about staying true to what we do.

At the same time, Amsterdam’s culinary reputation is rising at an incredible pace. Each year, new Michelin stars are awarded, which reflects not only the achievements of individual chefs but also the shared direction we are taking as a culinary community. The city is full of ambitious young talent, brimming with creativity, and it’s exciting to imagine where this movement will take us in the years ahead.